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Gluing Tips, Uses and Protocols Essentials

Getting Started
Clean Up

1. Speed
No waiting for slow resins means that your fiberglassing job is finished as fast as you can do the procedure. And, since the cloth stays where you put it, there are none of those time consuming repairs that are often necessary, when a section of cloth lifts during curing, as when using typical methods.

2. UFO™ and Foam
With new UFO™ thin, you can fiberglass right over bare foam. Any other Instant destroys white foam. For surfaces other than foam, HOT STUFF™ original can be used.

With HOT STUFF™, the whole job can be done without the long lasting odor of typical polyester resins. With UFO™, there are no fumes at all.

4. Light Weight
All fibers are completely surrounded and there is no need to fill the weave. Smooth finishes are accomplished by applying easy to sand and lightweight automotive paint primer. The extra resin (of any type) that it takes to fill the weave adds nothing significant to the overall strength but adds a lot of unnecessary weight and is miserable to sand. Do not put polyester resin over HOT STUFF™ or UFO™. Often the polyester resin will never cure.

5. No Itching
Because all the fibers are completely surrounded with HOT STUFF™ or UFO™, cutting, drilling, or sanding doesn't cause fraying and sanding doesn't create all of those little fiberglass needles.

Special Notes:
1. UFO™ Thick and Thin are the ONLY instant glues that won't attack white foam.
2. Use only fiberglass or Kevlar™ when applying over foam.
3. Use no polyester resin to fill the weave (see "Finishing")
4. Use SPRAY 'N CURE™ to speed curing.

Special note: for working with foam:
SPRAY 'N CURE™ accelerator will not attack expanded foam products.

Prepare the surface for fiberglassing:
Spray a very light coat of 3M 77™ spray contact cement over the entire area to be glassed. "very light" means just that! The contact spray should cover the surface with little pinhead sized dots, not a coating. So spray from 18 inches to 2 feet away and don't linger on any one spot. The 3M 77™ will stay tacky for hours, so there is no rush.

Placing the cloth:
Pre-cut your fiberglass to the approximate shape needed, allowing a little to hang over the edges. Lift the cloth into position and lay it on the surface. It doesn't matter if it isn't perfectly aligned. Starting from a side having more access than is needed, lift the cloth and replace it in the desired position. The cloth can be lifted again for realignment if necessary. When placement is satisfactory, pass a flat hand over the whole surface to adhere the fiberglass to the surface below and to smooth it out completely. The cloth will now stay put over unusual contours and even when inverted.

Applying HOT STUFF™-Original or UFO™ (Thin)
Both products have a very thin consistency. Tip the working surface and start at the top. As one area of cloth is saturated, the glue moves on to another area, so a small amount of glue goes a long way and weight is held to a minimum. The object being glassed should be held or propped so that the area where glue is being applied allows the glue to run downhill without puddling. Apply the glue in horizontal passes following the glue from the previous pass down towards the lowest portion of the object. As you apply the glue you'll see the saturated areas instantly become more transparent. When finished, check to see that all of the fiberglass has the transparent appearance. Apply glue to any missed areas. Spray a light sprits of The Glue Guy's SPRAY 'N CURE™ over the entire surface. Note: For best results, spray from 2-3 feet above and with the bottle to the side of work.

The purpose is to mist on a very small amount of accelerator while avoiding dripping onto the work. Too much accelerator may cause a bumpy surface as the glue cures too quickly. While these bumps are easily sanded off, it's best to avoid them. After accelerator has been applied, wait 30 seconds to a minute, then lightly touch the surface. If cured, lightly pass your hand along the entire surface. Re-spray any tacky areas. Note: You will notice that the cured fiberglass may feel very flexible, especially in areas where rigid support is not present directly below. (Fiberglass done with UFO over bare foam is a good example as the cured cloth can be dented if poked.) Full cure takes 24 hours and at that point the cloth will be completely set. This does not mean you have to wait to handle and work on the piece, just handle it carefully to avoid dents while preparing the surface for painting. Keep in mind that this is a thin lightweight system.

Finishing for painting:
With the fiberglassing done, you're ready to prepare the surface for painting, etc. Do not put polyester resin (commonly called "fiberglass resin") over HOT STUFF™ or UFO™. Often polyester resin will never cure and extra resin (of any type) that it takes to fill the weave adds nothing significant to the overall strength while adding lots of unnecessary weight, and typical resins are miserable to sand. Smooth finishes are accomplished by applying easy to sand lightweight Hobby Poxy SMOOTH 'N EASY™ finishing resin (Cat#H-58) - or automotive paint primer. Note: if auto primer is used, take care to avoid a heavy first coat. Solvents in excessive wet primer might seep through pinholes to attack a foam core underneath.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with this method first on a scrap piece before attempting on a real project. For use on natural, unstained, wood surfaces only.

Now you and your customers can have the finish to end all finishes on table tops, cabinets and just about any flat surface that can be worked horizontally. A few minutes of testing this HOT STUFF™ method on a scrap piece and we think you'll agree that the finish you can get is beautiful, almost bullet-proof and very fast.

This method should only be used outside or in well-ventilated area as the curing fumes of HOT STUFF™ can be uncomfortable. If ventilation is a problem, try our new UFO™ (User-Friendly Odorless) Thin type. UFO™ has no fumes or odor. All applications of HOT STUFF™ or UFO™ should be done over a drop-cloth to protect the bench or floor.

Products Needed:
UFO™ Thin or HOT STUFF™ Original (Red Label) and NCF-Mild Accelerator™

Set the unfinished piece horizontally and wipe off all wood dust. Vacuuming is best. Apply UFO™ Thin or HOT STUFF™ to a small area and, using a business card, move the liquid around to cover as much area as possible. Repeat until the surface has been coated.

Once the whole surface is coated, instant curing is done by misting on a light spray of NCF™-Mild accelerator. Best results are achieved by holding the NCF-Mild™ bottle about three feet above the work and spraying lightly. Care should be taken not to hold the bottle over the work. This is to prevent a drip from falling onto the curing UFO™ Thin or HOT STUFF™ and causing a foaming effect. Let stand for a minute, then repeat this curing procedure to make sure all is cured. Test the area to make sure it's all cured, by lightly passing your hand over the work.

Block sand with 320 grit 3M "Tri-Mite" silicon carbide paper. Do not wet sand. Keeping the work dry is essential.

After wiping off and vacuuming all dust, repeat the whole procedure once or twice more to achieve the depth you desire. Finer, 400 to 600 grit paper can be used now between coats. Usually two coats is enough for a beautiful finish.

When all applications and sanding have been done, check carefully to see if any areas have been sanded through the UFO™ Thin or HOT STUFF™, to the wood. If so, touch up the raw area and blend in. Take care not to sand through the UFO™ Thin. Rub with fine steel wool to a satin luster. Follow with polish and wax for a high gloss finish, if desired.

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HOT STUFF™ and new UFO™ Odorless 'THIN'
Assemble the parts first. All alignment will be done before HOT STUFF™ or UFO™ is applied. With the parts aligned and held firmly together, apply a small amount of HOT STUFF™ or UFO™ to the joint or crack. The size of the part and it's porosity play an important role in knowing how much to apply. UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' will not attack foam, making foam bonding possible (UFO™ Odorless 'THICK' is the better choice for bonding foam, however). Fiberglass skins, right on the foam, are practical and easy with UFO™ Odorless 'THIN'.

Apply SUPER 'T'™ in a spiral pattern to one part, assemble and align parts, then hold firmly for 10 to 25 seconds.

SPECIAL 'T'™and new UFO™ Odorless 'THICK'
These are very thick glues with greater gap-filling capabilities and have a slower rate of cure than SUPER 'T'™ making it possible to bond parts which fit very poorly (limited contact area). Because the rates of cure are so slow (50 - 60 seconds), many seconds of alignment time are possible after joining the parts. The amount of time varies, of course, with the material being bonded. Apply SPECIAL 'T'™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK' in a spiral pattern to one part, assemble and align parts, then hold firmly for 50 to 60 seconds. Using NCF-M™ or NCF™ reduces cure time to 5 to 10 seconds and, at the same time increases the strength, depending on the material.

Use NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerators with HOT STUFF™, UFO™ Odorless 'THIN', SUPER 'T'™, SPECIAL 'T'™ and UFO™ Odorless 'THICK'. Important: NCF-M™or NCF™, when sprayed on a surface or object, dries instantly and leaves no visible residue. Don't try to keep area wet. SPRAY'N CURE™ evaporates slowly, allow 50 to 60 seconds(at room temperature) for complete drying of SPRAY'N CURE™.

1) For small parts, spray NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ lightly on one part, assemble parts and apply HOT STUFF™and new UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' to the crack or joint. For larger bond areas, assemble parts first, apply HOT STUFF™ and new UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' to all sides, then spray NCF-M™ or NCF™ on the crack or joint where HOT STUFF™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THIN' was applied and wherever glue appears along the edges. NCF-M™ or NCF™ and SPRAY'N CURE™ make curing really fast, so, keep in mind that penetration is lessened as cure speed gets faster.

2) Very large areas are best bonded using SUPER 'T'™ or SPECIAL 'T'™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK'. First check the fit of parts to be bonded to see that they line up as you desire. This is important because bonding time is reduced. Spray NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ on one part and set aside. Apply SUPER 'T'™ or SPECIAL 'T'™ or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK' to the other part in a spiral pattern. The more porous the material, the tighter the pattern should be as some "soaking-in" may occur. Assemble and align parts then hold firmly for ten seconds. Never directly apply any of the HOT STUFF™ glues to an area which has been sprayed with NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™, curing will begin too quickly for a good bond to be made. When working in temperatures below 50 F and for hard to bond materials, use NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ with all HOT STUFF™ glues. If too much NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ is sprayed on wet glue, cure is too rapid and glue may appear to foam up or turn white. If this occurs, use less accelerator. A light spritz is all that is necessary.

Never Mix Glue & Accelerator in the same container!

Use Super Solvent as a solvent for Hot Stuff instant glues.

1) To open- puncture tip with safety pin

2) To remove glue from skin- Wet a soft cloth with solvent and apply to glue for 30 seconds. Wipe clean. Repeat as necessary. Wash with soap and water

3) To break existing bonds- Apply solvent directly to bond. Repeat at one-two minute intervals until bond can be separated with gentle force.

4) To remove glue from surfaces or fabric- Apply solvent to glue. After one minute, apply again and rub gently with soft cloth. Repeat until glue is removed. Wash with soap and water.

Note: US-1 may discolor fabric or paint finishes. You should always test on a sample or inconspicuous area before usage.

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All HOT STUFF™ glues have extremely good shelf lives.
See how shelf lives vary depending on bottle quantity as follows:

------------------- at Room Temperature -------------------

1/4 oz 6 months
1/2 oz 9 months
1 oz 11 months
2 oz Over 1 year
1/4 lb 2 years

Place new, UNOPENED bottles in the freezer at or below 32 to DOUBLE shelf life. Store used bottles at room temperature. This is because used bottles contain air from your workroom and that air contains moisture which condenses to water reducing shelf life. Always keep bottles upright when not in use. NCF-M™, NCF™ need no special storage except to avoid high temperatures (Store below 80 and keep original cap tightly screwed on).

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Hold bottle upright to drain glue from the upper spout back into the bottle, before opening. Cut 1/16 off the end of the spout. To increase flow, cut spout tip off an additional 1/16" until desired flow is obtained. Note: once opened, do not plug the hole with pins etc. when storing. This increases the likelihood of future clogging. The spout should be sealed with the special snap-on overcap. Anything put into the spout has trace moisture on it and causes these glues to cure. Keep bottle upright when not in use. Store bottles which have been opened at room temperature.  Replacement spouts are available 2 per box.

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Wet a paper towel with SUPER SOLVENT™ and wipe hands clean. Repeat if necessary. NOTE: Do not use this method while wearing fingernail polish. Then wash hands with soap and water.

It is rare for SUPER SOLVENT™ to affect colors, but to be safe, test material for color fastness first in an area that doesn't show. Wad the material so the spot of glue is at the tip and put a rubber band around the material to hold it in place. Place a small amount of solvent in a small container and submerse the glue spot. Let set for a few minutes then, when the glue is soft, work it gently until gone and wash or have cleaned. Repeat if necessary. NOTE: Do not use this method while wearing fingernail polish as cloth could become discolored.

It is advisable to test on a hidden area first to confirm surface is not affected by solvent. Apply SUPER SOLVENT™ directly on the cured glue then cover the area with a piece of wax paper or a plastic bag to keep it wet. Let set a few minutes then wipe up softened glue. Repeat if necessary. NOTE: SUPER SOLVENT™ should not be used while wearing fingernail polish as cloth could become discolored.

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The symptom: Cure time can be increased to several minutes or longer.

The problem: What is actually happening is that too much glue has been applied for this size job, the glue is cold or gaps are present that require the next thicker version of HOT STUFF™ or UFO™.

Note: This result is also a symptom of trying to use HOT STUFF™ in the same way the gap filling types are used. That is, applying glue to one part before assembly. Always assemble parts first. Then apply HOT STUFF™ THIN.

The solutions:
1) Use less glue, (approx. one drop per square inch of bonding area). Keep glue at room temp.

2)If the material is very porous like cork, for instance, spray one part`with NCF-M™ or NCF™ accelerator before assembly. Then proceed as in #(1), above. Note: either of the gap filling glues, SUPER'T'™ or SPECIAL'T'™, would be the better choices for a very porous material or for objects with large gaps.

3) Use NCF-M™ or NCF or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerator (see "HOW THEY'RE USED" section).


The Problem:
Rough surfaces allow only a small fraction of the two mated parts to come in contact. The remaining area is pure gap. The higher the ratio of gap to contact area, the slower the cure.

The solution: SUPER'T'™ gap filling , SPECIAL'T'™ ultra gap filling or UFO™ Odorless 'THICK' adhesive should be used for this job. Normal cure times for these glues are 10-25 seconds and 50-60 seconds, respectively. Spraying one part with NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerator before applying one of the gap filling glues to the other part speeds curing greatly and increases bond strength.

3. SURFACE CONTAMINATION (foreign materials on bond area)
Surface contamination would include oxidation, oils, dirt, water and any acidic material. Bond strength and curing speed can be adversely affected by any of these.

The problem:
Some materials have slight traces of various oils on their surface. These oils can be within the material or deposited on it in a number of ways. Plywoods, for example are sometimes coated with a mold release to aid their manufacture. When not cleaned off, bonding may be difficult. Skin oil from handling can be a factor, especially when highly acidic. Woods containing large amounts of pitch can be adverse to good bonding. Dampness reduces bond strength dramatically.

Note: oils can include collected deposits from the air, especially in oily or smoggy environments.

The symptom: Slow or weak bonds may be expected when surface contamination is present. Contaminated bonding surfaces can be compared to bonding two painted parts. HOT STUFF glues have up to 5000 p.s.i. strength, but the joint is only as strong as the adhesive quality of the paint or oxidation or oil. In other cases, especially where acidic materials are concerned, slow bonds will always occur. And although, bond strength may be affected, the difference isn't as great as with the other contaminants. Dampness reduces bond strength dramatically.

The solution: Always make sure bond area is clean and dry. Visible oil and dirt should be cleaned off with soap and water, bathed in a solvent or wiped with a solvent dampened cloth.

Note: some materials may be adversely affected by certain solvents.

Oxidation may be removed with a light abrasivrating qualitie. If oil traces are suspected but not seen, use NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerators. All have a cleaning effect as well as accelees to insure a strong and immediate bond. Use NCF-M™ or NCF™ or SPRAY'N CURE™ accelerators on pitchy or green (uncured) woods.

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If HOT STUFF™ glues are stored cold, (see storage info), always allow bottle(s) to come to room temperature before opening. Using these adhesives cold causes cure times to be minutes instead of seconds and shortens shelf life of the remaining contents of the bottle.

Once a bottle has been opened, never return it to cold storage. Moisture drawn into the bottle from opening and use will condense in cold storage and reduce shelf life.

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for Instant Glues: This text deals with the clogging of delivery spouts of any brand of instant glue, which some users seem to be plagued with. If you constantly find that your spouts clog please read on.

Some Good Reasons for Clogging
The key word is "Instant", which, for our purposes, means it will cure rapidly if given any incentive. This characteristic is, after all one of the reasons you use these glues. The incentives that the user inadvertently provides at the spout tip are the reasons for clogging. There are many such incentives listed below one or two of which, we hope, will be the cause of any clogging you may be experiencing.
 1)  Storage
New, unopened containers of any instant glue may be stored in the freezer (at or below 32 degreesF. to double shelf life. Always allow the container to warm to room temperature before opening. Once opened, never return to cold storage.
Why ?
Moisture is one of the catalysts. Opening a cold bottle or placing a previously opened bottle back in cold storage causes the warm air that has entered the bottle, (carrying moisture with it), to condense the moisture into water. This has a negative effect on shelf life causing the contents of the bottle to thicken and eventually harden and causes the spout to clog very frequently. The thicker these glues become, from the original viscosity, the more frequently clogs occur. Note: This is not to say that the gap filling versions are more likely to clog.
 2)  Application
Keep the tip of the spout from touching the work, especially if dust, from sanding, is present. Each time the spout touches foreign matter, the glue is effectively being told to cure. Foreign matter, if sucked into the spout, can also cause the contents of the bottle to thicken and eventually harden.
 3)  Sealing
If an overcap is provided, use it to reseal the bottle between uses. The overcap prevents dust or accelerator overspray etc. from settling on the spout. Never wipe off the spout tip with anything. Lint from cloth or paper products sticks to the tip and causes clogging. If you have a problem with clogging overnight or over the course of several days, here is a SPECIAL NOTE REGARDING HOT STUFF glues: If our special sealing ring (located 3/8 down from the tip of an unopened spout) has not been trimmed off, try tipping the bottle and squeezing slightly to fill the spout with glue. As the beginning of a drop appears ready to come out, snap the overcap in place. Then store the bottle upside-down and your spout will remain unclogged, ready to use up to several weeks.
 4)  Accelerator Overspray
Always make sure that accelerator OVERSPRAY doesn't touch an exposed spout. Set glue aside or reseal with the overcap before spraying accelerator.
 5)  Foreign Objects
Avoid putting pins or nails or anything into spout to try to keep it clear. The trace moisture on these objects is carried into the spout and makes clogging more frequent. Instead, trim off the tip a little with a knife.
 6)  Age or Foreign Matter
Shelf life is determined, to a great extent , by the quantity in the container. As a rule of thumb, a two ounce bottle has a one year shelf life at room temperature. As the bottle ages and passes it's expected useful lifetime, the glue begins to thicken. This can also occur because of improper storage or because of foreign matter being introduced into the bottle, as explained above. If you are very familiar with these glues, you know that even glue thickened because of any of the reasons above, is still usable as gap-filling versions. The older (thicker) the glue the more often spouts tend to clog.
7)  Replacement Spouts
Replacement spouts are available for most glues. It is always a good idea to have an extra on hand for when you have accidentally ruined the current working spout.


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